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I found with joy that the South Indian spice mix podi – a rubble of searingly hot, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” spice mix. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s home-dried chillies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less bold with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Gunpowder Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, let them sit in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves 2

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, sliced into 1.5-inch chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One tsp chilli flakes
1½ tsp flaky sea salt, plus extra to serve
2 garlic pieces, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
40ml mild oil
One red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
10g fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon flaky sea salt
One hundred grams natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Add the coriander, fennel and cumin seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a rough rubble.

Tip into a medium-large bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then gently stir in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Skewer the vegetables and cheese on to barbecue sticks, then transfer to a baking sheet and keep ready – if desired, you can at this stage cover and refrigerate the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a container. Heat the grill to its maximum heat, then grill the skewers for a short time on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are getting slightly burnt. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, scattered with a little more flaky salt and the dressing alongside for dipping.